CHANEL J12 BLEU开启蓝色时代

法国品牌Chanel出其不意跳脱J12腕表的黑白美学框架,让它以蓝色示人,更发布9款限定腕表。

Dolly Dai Xin

Associate Fashion Editor

图:Chanel提供

是J12系列腕表自2000年诞生以来首次以蓝色示人。

Chanel J12 Bleu, self-winding mechanical movement, dial with sapphires, 38mm ceramic and steel case, ceramic bracelet limited edition watch $37,000

Chanel J12 Bleu, self-winding mechanical movement, dial with sapphires, 38mm ceramic and steel case, ceramic bracelet limited edition watch $37,000

25年前Chanel以一枚黑陶瓷腕表掀起钟表界革命——那款全黑腕表由品牌已故香水与美容品及腕表珠宝创意总监Jacques Helleu耗时七年打造,并以其钟爱的J级别帆船赛事命名。三年后品牌为系列添加白色精密陶瓷表款,自此J12的美学便一直在黑白之间游走,坚守极简、利落却又大胆的风格。

品牌创办人Gabrielle Chanel说过:“黑色包容一切,白色亦然;它们各自的美无懈可击,搭配在一起又绝对和谐。”

Chanel J12 Bleu, self-winding mechanical movement, dial with sapphires, 33mm ceramic and steel case, ceramic bracelet limited edition watch $35,550

Chanel J12 Bleu, self-winding mechanical movement, dial with sapphires, 33mm ceramic and steel case, ceramic bracelet limited edition watch $35,550

这次为何会突放蓝光?其实,蓝色对品牌而言并非是陌生语汇。

发生于1932年的轶事:Gabrielle Chanel那一年以“裁缝师”的身份跨界珠宝首饰领域,亲自设计首个高级珠宝首饰系列Bijoux de Diamants。因为铺天盖地的媒体报道,却也意外引发了珠宝业的敌意及强烈抵制。大部分作品在展出后被迫拆解,所幸还有几件于发布当天售出的遗珍流传于世——其中一枚Comete“彗星”铂金胸针便被安置于一个午夜蓝的丝衬盒中,被形容为“宛如星空中的碎片”。

Chanel J12 Bleu, self-winding mechanical movement, dial with diamonds, 33mm ceramic and steel case, ceramic braceletlimited edition watch $18,000

Chanel J12 Bleu, self-winding mechanical movement, dial with diamonds, 33mm ceramic and steel case, ceramic braceletlimited edition watch $18,000

这些年来蓝色也已俨然成为品牌美学符号之一,并以不同形式呈现在品牌产品上。如2010年推出的Bleu de Chanel男香和各系列彩妆,或作为装饰及细节元素运用在腕表上。

2022年品牌推出1932高级珠宝首饰系列作为90周年致敬之作,其中最引人注目的Allure Céleste项链,也镶嵌了一颗55.55克拉的椭圆形蓝宝石。

Chanel J12 Bleu, self-winding mechanical movement, 38mm ceramic and steel case, ceramic bracelet limited edition watch $15,950

Chanel J12 Bleu, self-winding mechanical movement, 38mm ceramic and steel case, ceramic bracelet limited edition watch $15,950

今年J12 Bleu腕表的诞生,则无疑是在品牌制表世界中,赋予蓝色真正的主角身份。

Chanel J12 Bleu Diamond Tourbillon, manual-winding mechanical movement with flying tourbillon, openworked dial and tourbillon cage with diamond, 38mm ceramic and steel case with sapphires, ceramic bracelet limited edition watch (55 pieces)(POA)

Chanel J12 Bleu Diamond Tourbillon, manual-winding mechanical movement with flying tourbillon, openworked dial and tourbillon cage with diamond, 38mm ceramic and steel case with sapphires, ceramic bracelet limited edition watch (55 pieces)(POA)

品牌腕表创意工作室总监Arnaud Chastaingt表示:“我梦想为黑色赋予一种颜色,用蓝色点亮它。”于是Chanel制表厂历经五年潜心研发,独家打造出哑面蓝色精密陶瓷——它深邃、内敛并富有张力,是一种近乎黑的蓝,或一种近乎蓝的黑。 全新推出的九款J12 Bleu限定腕表,也各自展现蓝色的不同面貌:有着重于哑面精密陶瓷的纯粹蓝调(纯色或镶以钻石)的表款,有饰以蓝宝石时标、表圈及表链的表款,有以镂空表盘展现钻石陀飞轮的表款,有以蓝宝石水晶精雕表壳与链节的表款……每一款不仅以精湛工艺诠释蓝色的无尽变化,也让蓝在J12的黑白之间展开全新的精彩叙事。

Chanel J12 Bleu X-Ray, manual-winding mechanical movement, 38mm blue sapphire crystal and white gold case with sapphires, blue sapphire crystal and white gold bracelet with sapphires limited edition watch (12 pieces)(POA)

Chanel J12 Bleu X-Ray, manual-winding mechanical movement, 38mm blue sapphire crystal and white gold case with sapphires, blue sapphire crystal and white gold bracelet with sapphires limited edition watch (12 pieces)(POA)

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